Fougère Base Accord
Lavender, coumarin and oakmoss the classical masculine perfume formula.
Fougère (French for 'fern') is the foundational masculine perfume family invented by Houbigant Fougère Royale in 1882. The structure lavender, coumarin, oakmoss is the DNA of countless men's fragrances from Jicky and Brut to Cool Water and Sauvage. Building this accord is one of the most important historical exercises in perfumery.
Scent profile
- Top
- Sparkling bergamot and herbaceous lavender
- Heart
- Geranium, soft coumarin sweetness
- Base
- Mossy, woody, slightly leathery drydown
Example structure
Educational example the percentages refer to the concentrate, not to the final perfume. Always check IFRA limits and your own safety guidelines before applying anything to skin.
| Material | Share |
|---|---|
| Lavender EO (fine) | 30% |
| Coumarin | 20% |
| Bergamot EO | 15% |
| Geranium EO | 10% |
| Oakmoss substitute (Evernyl) | 10% |
| Vetiver EO | 8% |
| Tonka absolute (10%) | 7% |
Tips & variations
- ·Real oakmoss absolute is restricted by IFRA use Evernyl (Veramoss) or low-atranol oakmoss for safe leave-on perfumes.
- ·Coumarin gives the signature 'new mown hay' sweetness keep it between 15 and 25% of the accord.
- ·Modern aromatic fougères add dihydromyrcenol for a metallic-fresh lift try 5 to 10% for a Cool Water style.
Build this in Scent Inventory
Track raw materials, cost per gram and IFRA hints and save your own version of this formula in your private library.
Frequently asked
Why is fougère considered masculine?
Mostly cultural convention dating back to the late 19th century when lavender and oakmoss were marketed to men. The accord itself is genderless and appears in many modern unisex and feminine perfumes too.
Is oakmoss banned?
Not banned, but heavily restricted. Atranol and chloroatranol, two allergens in natural oakmoss, are essentially limited to trace amounts. Suppliers now offer low-atranol oakmoss and synthetic substitutes like Evernyl that pass IFRA.